QuinLED-Dig-Uno has not been released yet!

Hardware guide

To build the QuinLED-Dig-Uno you are going to need several components which are listed below. As a little disclaimer, please take a look at this article about my shopping links. After reading that, make sure to also take a look at the additional hardware and tools you might need to be able to complete this project. Then I also have articles about 5v and 12v addressable LED strip and the differences of them and even an article about different form factor addressable LEDs you can buy!

Those articles are a lot of information but will teach you everything you need to know! If you have any questions about the components, let me know in the comments!

Total costs for a single board

What a single fully built QuinLED-Dig-Uno board will cost is a bit harder to determine then my other boards because you have several options. Those options are to make the board only 5v compatible or 5v and 12v (requires extra components). The second choice is if you are going to use an ESP8266 or a ESP32.

These per board values are a bit skewed because it’s calculated using bulk bought components, buying minimum quantities of all the components will make it a bit more expensive per board

The base board with only 5v compatibility will cost you about 8$, adding 12v compatibility to that will cost you an additional 3$. So that raises the total cost from 8$ to 11$. Then you can use an ESP8266 or ESP32. An ESP8266 (Wemos D1 Mini) will cost you about 2$ if you’d rather run an ESP32 this will cost you about 6,5$ to 7$.

So the cheapest would be a 5v only board with an ESP8266 on it and that would cost you only 10$. The other side of the spectrum is a 12v compatible board with an ESP32, this will set you back 18$ per complete board.


Board Summary

You need the following components and quantities:



Components needed

Most components come in multiples of 5 or 10. I will try to link to several batch sizes available so you don’t immediately have to buy the amount for 10 or more boards. Of course, if you do, the per board the price becomes (much) cheaper! Also when buying larger amounts of components you slowly but surely amass common components used in hardware tinkering and they are convenient to have lying around!

All amounts of the components will be listed in green text. The amount listed there is for building a single board!

QuinLED-Dig-Uno PCB boards

  • 1x QuinLED-Dig-Uno PCB

I always order my boards from dirtypcbs.com and they haven’t failed me yet. If you order a protopack you get anywhere from 10 to 12 boards and I haven’t had one fail me yet. If you include shipping, their prices are very competitive! You can find the current version 1 revision 3 board here:


This link is for ordering 5x5cm boards which will yield you 10 to 12 functional boards. If you would like to order more then one of my designs check my separate page up where you can buy combined versions with different designs on one PCB!

Gerber files?

I currently do not have the gerber files available. I might release these in the future so you can use your own favorite board house but in the past I’ve had issues where people would keep using (and spread) old versions because that’s what they downloaded at some time. Also there were complications where certain board houses did things differently then I expect them to do. That complicates things such as optimizing and improving the design over time, hopefully you can understand.

Board size (without ESP) is 5cm by 4cm

Wemos D1 Mini (ESP8266) and/or Wemos D32 Mini (ESP32)

The main brains for the QuinLED-Dig-Uno can be the Wemos D1 Mini which is an ESP8266 based board or the Wemos D32 Mini which is an ESP32, the PCB has been designed in such a way that you can literally swap them! The main advantage of the ESP32 is that it’s a lot faster so it can handle more LEDs or sensors connected to it using the GPIO pins.

A secret bonus feature is that while this board is called QuinLED-Dig-Uno, if you use clockless (only one (data) pin like ws2812b) LED strip you can actually hook up two at the same time and drive both separately! The ESP8266 just doesn’t have the horse power to do that. For more differences check out the Board info page.

*These wemos boards are different then the MH-ET Live ESP32 boards I usually use, my other designs will still use that one though!

  • 1x Wemos D1 Mini (ESP8266)

1x Wemos D1 Mini (ESP8266)

and / or

  • 1x Wemos D32 Mini (ESP32)

1x MH-ET D1 Mini 32 (ESP32)

Female headers

In theory you don’t need to buy these because they should come with your Wemos D1 Mini or Wemos D32 Mini. If they didn’t you need 2x 8 pins female headers.

  • 2x 8 pins 2.54mm female header

10 pcs 8 pin 2.54mm female headers

Screw terminals

To secure all the wires to the board you are going to need several screw terminals. I personally use different colors for input and outputbut buying multiple colors does make it more expensive (buying multiple colors gets you a lot).

  • Per QuinLED-Dig-Uno you need
    • 1x 2 port Board power input terminal
    • 1x 2 slot LED output terminal

So that makes 2x terminal input blocks in total (The power block has 2 inputs, the LED block has 4 inputs!)

Board power input

For voltage input I like to use 2 Pin Black terminals

10 Pcs 2 pin BLACK 5.0mm Screw Terminal

100 Pcs 2 pin BLACK 5.0mm Screw Terminal

Dimming channel output

For the LED Data and LED Clock channel outputs I like to use blue terminals because it’s more alike to GPIO. With that said, the board + and – output terminals are on the same block! You need 1x 4 pin terminal.

10 Pcs Blue 4 pin screw terminals

100 Pcs Blue 4 pin screw terminals


2.54mm Male pin headers

For the GPIO pins you need to get 2x 5 pin single row of male through hole pin headers. The pins come on a strip and you can buy a strip of 40 and just snip off the length you need.

  • 2x 5 pin single row 2.54mm male pin headers (GPIO headers)
  • 1x 3 pin single row 2.54mm male pin headers (5v/12v voltage select)(Also needed on 5v only version!)

20 pcs 40 pin 2.54mm pin header strip (Silver)

20 pcs 40 pin 2.54mm pin header strip (Gold)


To be able to set the voltage of the board to 5v or 12v you are going to need a little jumper, they need to be 2.54mm in size. Let’s make them yellow so they catch your eye so you remember to set it. Even if you are building a 5v only board, you still need this jumper!

  • 1x 2.54mm Jumper (Yellow)

100Pcs of Yellow jumpers

0805 10k Ohm resistor

The board needs some resistors, the dalles temperature sensor requires to be pulled high (with the ESPhome code) so that one needs a 4.7k resistor. Then there are 4 needed for the data lines and level shifter. Another 4 are optional, there are two spots on the board for pulling the additional GPIO’s up and down. You can use the value you need for those but I generally use 10k.

  • 8x 0805 10k Ohm resistor
  • 1x 0805 4.7k Ohm resistor

*You will need a tweezer to put these into place, make sure to check out the tools section!

100 Pcs 0805 10k Ohm resistor

100 Pcs 0805 resistor (Has both 4.7k and 10k available)

0805 10 uF Capacitor

To stabilize power delivery to all components a few capacitors are needed. For space saving and ease of soldering we’re using 0805 size capacitors.

  • 3x 0805 0.1uF Capacitor
  • 2x 0805 10uF Capacitor

*You will need a tweezer to put these into place, make sure to check out the tools section!

0805 0.1uF

100 Pcs 0805 0.1uF Capacitor

0805 10uF

100 Pcs 0805 10 uF Capacitor



Dallas DS18B20 TO-92 Temperature sensor

All the boards, including the QuinLED-Dig-Uno have a spot for a Dallas DS18B20 TO-92 temperature sensor. It’s a cheap way to add a little sensor to the board!

  • 1x Dallas DS18B20 TO-92 temperature sensor

5 pcs Dallas DS18B20 TO-92

Level Shifter

The ESP8266 & ESP32 natively operates at 3.3v but the Digital Addressable LED strips expect 5v for their input logic signals. Normally, sending 3.3v will work but if you start using longer cable runs or longer LED strips that run at high clock speeds, errors can start to show up. Feeding a correct 5v fixes all these issues!

(Although in theory you could leave them off the board and bridge the right ports, or using a “donor pixel” with ws2812b strips I advise placing the level shifter and have it work correct in all cases. The level shifter method is also best compatible with other type of LED strip such as WS2815, APA102 or SK6812.)

The variant used (74AHCT125N in a DIP14 package) is suited for high speed switching which is required for APA102 LED strip for instance. Both the Data lines and the Clock lines are fed through the level shifter! They are cheap so you buy them in packs of 10. The DIP14 package also means they can be easily soldered directly to the board or if you so desire can be placed into a socket.

*These shifters are uni-directional, you cannot connect switches or anything else that sends input or expect 2 way communication back to the board on these channels! The external GPIO pins do not have this limitation.

  • 1x 74AHCT125N DIP14 Level Shifter

74AHCT125N Level Shifter (Shopping links have different amounts!)

(The Aliexpress link is for 20, but you can buy per 5 on Ebay. Otherwise take a look at the following mouser listing)

Large Capacitors

Although everything will actually work without these big caps they serve 2 goals. The first is to limit inrush current into the LED strips which can sometimes damage the LEDs logic chips and second is to stabilize power when different amounts of current is needed because of very rapid color changes, the large capacitors will be able to smooth the demand a bit and help your power supply out, taking the big hits and keeping the LED strip bright and constant whatever the pattern!

The board has two spots for these big capacitors. However because of the design one of them is slightly under the microcontroller while the other one doesn’t have a height restriction. For the one under the microcontroller you need to make sure it’s not higher than 1CM (8mmx8mm works best). The other one has a mounting size of 10mm and as mentioned does not have a height restriction.

5v only or 5v/12v compatible?

You need to choose the appropriate capacitor for the voltage you will use the board for. For 5v only boards you can use 6.3v capacitors but for 12v boards you need 16v capacitors.

The listed capacitors below are good examples which I have tested and work, they are however examples and you can mix and match any capacitor you’d like as long as you adhere to the size restraints. (8mm x 8mm  and 10mm x ??mm). I liking mixing a lower value and a higher value. 🙂

5v only

When the board will only be used for 5v buying 6.3v capacitors is fine and I suggest using the following:

  • 1x 8mm max 1CM height: 1x 16v 270uF capacitor
  • 1x 10mm free height: 1x 6.3v 3300uF capacitor

10Pcs 8mm x 8mm (height) 16v 270uF capacitors

10Pcs 10x 25mm (height) 6.3v 3300uF capacitors


5v/12v Selectable

When the board will also be used with 12v LED strip you need to make sure that all capacitors used can handle this. Because of that reason I suggest using 16v capacitors

  • 1x 8mm max 1CM height: 1x 16v 270uF capacitor
  • 1x 10mm free height: 1x 16v 1500uF capacitor

10Pcs 8mm x 8mm (height) 16v 270uF capacitors

10Pcs 10mm x 20mm (height) 16v 1500uF capacitors



SMD Diodes

The QuinLED-Dig-Uno has several diodes on board. These serve 2 purposes, there is a diode in parallel with both the input terminals and the output terminals. Combined with the fuse these should help in reverse polarity situations (it should blow the fuse before damaging onboard components). The second is an inline diode which should prevent the ESP module on the board providing power back to the board through it’s 5v pin. Although this is in place I still not do not advise connecting 5v/12v power + USB at the same time!

These diodes are a lot bigger then on my previous boards to make soldering easier! Tweezers are still recommended though!

Make sure not to NOT connect both a power supply AND USB at the same time!

Take ESP module off for initial programming

  • 1x SS12 diode
  • 2x SS24 diode

100Pcs SS12 diode

100Pcs SS24 diode

*You will need a tweezer to put these into place, make sure to check out the tools section!



12v DC-DC converter

When putting together a 5v/12v board you are going to need a DC-DC converter. This component is NOT needed if you are only going to run 5v. This DC-DC converter is tiny but it does a great job and doesn’t become hot! We are converting 12v to 5v.

Sadly they are a bit expensive a piece but other solutions either required too many components or would make the board a lot bigger! I’m still looking for solutions but for now, this is it!

  • Optional 12v only component!
    • 1x DD4012SA_5v DC-DC Converter

DD4012SA_5V 6v~40v to 5v converter


PCB Fuse holder

To try and add a bit more “security” to the board I have added an inline fuse holder on the PCB. This holder accepts standard “CAR” style fuses which are cheap and easy to get in a lot of different values. Take a look at my “what value fuse should I use” article to figure out which values you should work with.

  • 1x PCB fuse holder
  • 1x Assortment of ATO size fuses

3 or 5 Pcs PCB fuse holder

(Thes PCB Fuse holders get a lot cheaper when buying in bulk, also check out this link)

20 Pcs PCB fuse holder

ATO fuses

Once you have fuse holders you will need some fuses. Again, take a look at my “what value fuse should I use” article. With that said, to start out I recommend getting a assortment kit with lots of different values included.

1x ATO standard size fuse assortment kit

Additional hardware components, tools and equipment

Above is all the components you need to assemble a complete QuinLED-Dig-Uno board! Again, often it’s best to order components for at least 5 boards, soldering doesn’t always go perfect and once you have one self-built Domotica device, it rarely stays at that number. If you do truly only need 1 or 2 boards, make sure to check out my component kits or even pre-made boards in this article!

Also, don’t forget, this article only lists all the components you need, not the tools and other accessories you might also require. Make sure to take a scroll through this article to see what you might also need so you don’t get frustrated if you don’t have it while building! If you still need LED strip check out XXXXXXXXXXXXXXX. And to power it all, check out this article about power supplies!

p.s. If anything listed on here turns out to be wrong or the link has stopped working, please drop me a line using the contact form so I can correct it!